Our pre-holiday reading about Medan told us many people consider it the worst city they've ever been! Not too promising but we were determined to find the best bits and only planned to stay for one night. It immediately struck us how unusual tourists are in this city - we were getting openly stared at wherever we went and accosted by lots of students wanting to practise their English. Having been assured that westerners are welcome to visit the Grand Mosque, we got kitted out in suitable attire (sarongs and a head scarf) and were shown around by an excellent guide. Having our photo taken proved more problematic - half the people of Medan wanted to have their photo taken with us so it took quite a while! It's very surreal to be treated like a celebrity, but I suppose they don't get giant white Brits visiting their mosque very often!
| Feeling like celebrities - outside the Grand Mosque, Medan |
Medan wasn't as bad as we'd expected, though we weren't terribly impressed with the 'palace' and won't be planning a return trip any time soon. This photo really sums up the chaos of the streets for us - there are cars and motorbikes everywhere, stray dogs and cats and all kinds of livestock on the side of the road. People manage to carry anything and everything on the side of their motorbike.
Fortunately we found a minivan company that could take us to Lake Toba, saving ourselves the rip-off 1.5 million Rupiah we'd been offered by a taxi to take us (80 quid but a months salary in Sumatra!) No journey is particularly pleasant or quick in Sumatra so getting to Lake Toba in 5 hours was pretty good and painless. It was worth the journey...
Lake Toba is the largest volcanic lake in the world with Samosir island in the middle which is the size of Singapore. It was a fantastic island to explore by motorbike, with wonderful views and quiet roads. We drove past cows, goats and chickens at the side of the road. We weren't so keen on the big monitor lizard which came across the road right in front of us though! We had some very red bits after being outside all day, but it was well worth it.
Next stop Berastagi which is a small town sitting between two volcanoes. It's much cooler and tends to rain a lot. We felt pretty adventurous climbing Gunung Sibayak by ourselves, which at 2000m was quite a trek. We could smell the sulphur before we saw it but it was quite scary seeing the yellow gas coming out of holes near the top! It certainly felt like an active volcano and we felt a great sense of achievement making it to the top. Very cloudy so not the view we were hoping for but it made for some very atmospheric photos! We were very glad to make it back down before the rain started again. Very sore legs the following day so a good job it was a travelling home day.
| Spot me in this picture! |
| The very gassy volcano crater |